van het vormgeven van de Scandinavische identiteit tot een podium voor nieuw talent

This month, Helsinki is preparing for a new edition of the annual Fashion in Helsinki event. With an official program from May 26 to 30, the event is packed with independent, young and sometimes established talent from the region. This underlines the city’s status as a growing fashion capital.

While many of these locations prioritize commercial trade, Finland is taking a decidedly different path. Brands like Marimekko are among the few that have reached the international market. Names like Rolf Ekroth and Latimmier may provide some recognition beyond Scandinavian borders. For Fashion in Helsinki, however, the focus on emerging names is a conscious choice.

An industry focused on design

Compared to other Scandinavian countries, which are typically driven by commercially successful fashion brands, the Finnish industry focuses on design. According to Martta Louekari, Juni Communication & Production’s communications director, designers often first create a vision for the brand before building a team around it. This is in contrast to relying on branding agencies and experienced founders. The system is similar to that of Antwerp and follows a model rooted in traditional craftsmanship and customization.

Like the Belgian fashion capital, the Finnish event is built on the unique characteristics of the local industry. Organizers have only strengthened this determination as global interest increases. “Previously this country and its history were known for architecture and product design, but today fashion is definitely one of the most interesting design principles from Finland,” Louekari told FashionUnited. “There are so many exciting things happening right now and new brands are developing so quickly.”

Commercialism in the context of individualized businesses

Commercial success is not a core value of Fashion in Helsinki, largely due to the individual approach of local creatives. Louekari notes that the strength of design talent in the region is palpable. Many graduates from Aalto University’s fashion department go on to work at major luxury houses. Some of this talent occasionally returns to Finland and uses the knowledge gained to launch their own label. The number of such brands has increased significantly in recent years. Louekari states that there are many brands that are less than five years old.

Maintaining an identity that is inextricably linked to the avant-garde is common. This preserves a quality that is deeply rooted in Finnish design history, visible in architecture and craftsmanship as well as in fashion. “The question is how do you build a brand around these topics,” Louekari said. “We have some success stories from commercially recognized brands, but the shift we are seeing now comes from young designers born directly into the internet age. The way they work and how the commercial side of a brand is built is new.”

Many of these designers choose to work exclusively with ‘drops’ instead of seasonal collections. Sales mainly take place via social media or our own channels, such as an independent webshop. As a result, a new generation of fiercely independent brands has emerged that work in formats that suit them, rather than bending to the constraints of international systems. This is a far cry from the industries in traditional fashion regions.

Efforts to increase global awareness are visible in collaborations with other events, such as Copenhagen Fashion Week, for which Fashion in Helsinki serves as a knowledge partner. The Danish counterpart operates in a completely different commercial world than Finland, but has the same values ​​in terms of support for emerging designers and focus on sustainability. Louekari said the partnership has been very fruitful in connecting brands with buyers and other stakeholders. Yet the two events have opposing missions in terms of commercialism.

Marimekko as a pillar of design heritage

However, Finland’s fashion heritage is also celebrated during the event. Ahead of the start of Fashion in Helsinki, Marimekko Day, an event that has been running for more than 30 years, honors one of the country’s most iconic designer labels. This year is no different: a series of fashion shows will take place in Esplanadi Park on May 22, heralding the summer season.

For many Finns, Marimekko is a brand they grew up with, associated with childhood memories and a reflection of a historic design heritage. “It’s important in the sense of nostalgia,” Louekari said. “But it is also a brand that has succeeded well in translating the Finnish lifestyle and our bond with nature into commercial products.”

The way Marimekko operates reflects the intimacy of the Finnish design community, where everyone knows each other. Louekari’s sister, for example, has worked for the brand as a pattern maker for more than twenty years. Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi, the founder of the Vuokko label, also previously worked for the brand and is credited with creating the Jokapoika shirt, one of Marimekko’s core styles.

When organizing an event in this compact space, Louekari says it is essential to ensure consistency in quality, design and concept when putting together the programme. Maintaining a balance between global names like Marimekko and emerging voices from Aalto University or other platforms is a central challenge. This is carried out in various presentation formats, from exhibitions to collective fashion shows.

Program Fashion in Helsinki 2026

Four of this year’s events will spotlight a selection of recent graduates or new designers. The KOE26 show on May 26 showcases the collections of ten graduate designers exploring different themes. The next day, the Fashion in Helsinki Presentation in Seurasaari offers a stage to eleven emerging Finnish designers, each bringing a fresh take on Scandinavian fashion. This is followed by the Aalto Graduation Show, a catwalk show and exhibition showcasing the work of BA and MA fashion students. Finally, the Evol fashion show debuts a new concept to promote its platform for creative talent.

These take place alongside catwalk shows, installations and presentations from brands such as Christian Chirayu by Oliver Ahlmark; the materials-focused label Studio Lamea; Sofia Ilmonen, a designer of modular garments; Otsamo, a brand focused on modern tailoring and craftsmanship; Vain, a former Copenhagen Fashion Week participant; and Alex Luonto, a fashion artist organizing a show accompanied by the exhibition ‘The Blueprint’.

Various exhibitions in partner museums complement the program and contribute to the goal of putting new talent in the spotlight. On the opening day, the Museum of Architecture and Design’s Craft Punk exhibition, curated by Fashion Community Helsinki and Juha Vehmaanperä, will be transformed into a fashion evening with a guided tour. The Generation 2026 exhibition at the Amos Rex museum, meanwhile, presents a triennial of 50 young multimedia artists and a pop-up gallery shop, ‘SS26 Space’.

“Fashion is so much about conceptual collections and treating fashion as an art form that it has always made sense to work together,” said Louekari, adding that many of these museums have been long-time collaborators of Fashion in Helsinki.

Third edition of the Finnish Fashion Awards

To celebrate the industry as a whole, Fashion in Helsinki has created the Finnish Fashion Awards, a relatively new ceremony that is in its third edition. The initiative aims to recognize players from all corners of the local community, from makeup artists to those overseeing sustainable implementation and retail. “We realized that in addition to designers, we also need to recognize and celebrate the value of work in other areas,” Louekari said.

This year the Designer of the Year category is being introduced, an addition to the existing Talent Prize, but with a sharper focus on creative vision and craftsmanship. The awards also partner with music event Flow Festival for the Style Icon of the Year award, which recognizes content creators. “It’s really nice to celebrate the industry together and invite everyone in one evening to see each other and network,” Louekari added.