Author: VOG

After a decade-long run, Demna is stepping down from Balenciaga, parent company Kering announced today.The Georgian designer, known mononymously as Demna, was appointed creative director of the Spanish house in October 2015, shortly after Vetements (the label he founded with his brother) showed for the first time at Paris Fashion Week. In the last decade, Demna brought Balenciaga to the forefront of the industry by consistently pushing the boundaries of fashion’s playbook. Notable collections and projects include Balenciaga’s 30-minute dress; the Spring/Summer 2022 collection that marked the brand’s post-pandemic return to the catwalks with a show within a show that…

Number one with a bullet bra! Miu Miu topped Vogue Runway’s most-viewed show list for the first time this season. The brand has been on a roll ever since its post-pandemic return to the runway for spring 2022. With its hacked-off cableknit sweaters and pelmet skirts and the endless midriffs in between, that show was nothing less than generation-defining. I never saw cropped tops at the office before Covid, and now nobody bats an eye at their proliferation.This Miu Miu collection, while more of a pastiche of past references than a silhouette story, has had a similar pulse-quickening effect on…

This article first appeared on Vogue Runway.Of all the names rumored for the Gucci role over the last month — and there were a lot of them — Demna, who was announced as its new artistic director today, is both the most obvious and the least.Obvious because he’s an internal hire, hiding in plain sight. Both Gucci and Balenciaga, where Demna has been creative director for nearly 10 years, are owned by Kering; the familiarity and comfort level on both sides will ease the transition. Also obvious because his Balenciaga was so original. Glancing back at his silhouette-shifting Balenciaga debut,…

“I won’t comment on current affairs. I was told not to. But I can quote the famous American philosopher Lady Gaga: fashion is the thing that saved me from being sad,” said Mytheresa CEO Michael Kliger at a dinner hosted by the German luxury multi-brand retailer for Australian designer Christopher Esber on Saturday.Lady Gaga’s line reflected the mood: Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 offered a solid season amid a geopolitical crisis, luxury slump, looming trade war and the woes of wholesale. Grounded collections, strong debuts and sunny weather — at least until Monday — put attendees in good spirits, even…

It was the worst IPO the US market had seen in two years. But the thing about legacy brands? They know how to weather a storm.Birkenstock CEO Oliver Reichert says that going public was the company’s second best option. The first would have been to keep the brand growing in a “peaceful, positive family atmosphere”, but decades of “complex” dynamics led Reichert (the first person outside of the Birkenstock family to run the company) into the arms of the New York Stock Exchange. He rang the bell alongside Alexandre Arnault, who has been a board member since 2023 (L Catterton,…

Simone Bellotti is heading to Jil Sander, whose creative director post was left vacant by the departure of Luke and Lucie Meier last month.“Simone embarks on this journey with extensive experience and a distinct talent. Over the time spent together we shared the strategic vision and mission for Jil Sander, the values of innovation and sophistication that make it an iconic and unique brand,” said Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, in a statement.Bellotti was quietly recruited to Bally’s design team in October 2022 from Gucci, where he’d spent 16 years in the design studio under Frida Giannini and Alessandro…

Carven has appointed Mark Thomas as director of design, the house confirmed today. The house, owned by China’s ICCF Group, chose to promote from within after Louise Trotter exited in January to take the creative helm of Bottega Veneta. Thomas joined Carven in 2023 as senior designer.In just three seasons at Carven, Trotter, with Thomas as her second-in-command, managed to inject new energy into the house. “It feels sophisticated and chic, wearable, and I am sure it will sell in the stores,” fashion consultant Julie Gilhart said after Trotter’s debut show at Carven.Thomas, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, is…

Vogue: Where did the name come from?Hannah: Going back to that first conversation when we became friends, it was just like, this industry is shit, right? There’s a lot of shitty things going on. There’s no other word for it, but how can we say it in a glamorous way? So we’re like, ‘fecal matter’ is the scientific word for it. And then, since we were living in Montréal, which is a French-speaking part of Canada, we were like, why don’t we just say it in French, it sounds way more glamorous.Vogue: OK, so you finished school and launched Matières…

And so Burton has opted to go back to the beginning – to Hubert de Givenchy’s first show in 1952. Studying black-and-white photographs of his debut, which was held in a hôtel particulier on rue Alfred de Vigny, christened by a journalist at the time “the Cathédrale”, she was struck by Givenchy’s youth – he was just 25 – and by the obvious camaraderie between the couturier and his models, among them Bettina Graziani, who also worked in his press office. “But what really amazed me,” Burton says, “was how graphic the collection was; it’s very stripped back, not fussy. For me, Givenchy…

The tensions between the US and Ukraine have cast a heavy mood over the Ukrainian fashion community. Designers are showing resilience at Paris Fashion Week (PFW), presenting collections that celebrate their heritage during dark times.Last week, US President Donald Trump met with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy in the Oval Office to discuss Ukraine’s war with Russia, and the US’s proposed deal to achieve peace. The meeting, which was conducted in front of news outlets and cameras, ended in an argument between the two leaders, followed by the Trump administration suspending military aid to Ukraine. Now, it looks like the leaders…