The Paris menswear week for spring/summer 2027 was overshadowed by a heat wave. The focus was therefore mainly on fans, fans, parasols and, yes, an artificial wave with a sandy beach at Louis Vuitton.
While the French fashion house led by American rapper Pharrell Williams attracted attention with lifestyle products such as a bicycle and surfboards with a brand logo, something else happened. His compatriot Rick Owens, together with Adidas, transformed training jackets into mobile air conditioners. Yet a phase of calm seems to have arrived in menswear.
However, the designers are not resting on their laurels; they opt for significantly more subdued looks. The emphasis is on light and supple fabrics and modern tailoring, with a silhouette that is more minimalist and sleek.
A certain sensuality enveloped the bodies, which was enhanced by a predominantly androgynous cast. The looks were presented by models whose appearance can be attributed to different genders, blurring boundaries in a casual and natural way. This was seen, among others, by Ernest W. Baker, Auralee and Beautiful People.
Sensual menswear
With the high temperatures this season, brands are leaning towards light and flexible fabrics. Instead of classic menswear with structured shirts and jackets, designers are opting for transparent alternatives.
Dior’s creative director Jonathan Anderson sent a flexible, checked blazer down the catwalk for the French fashion house. This was paired with an unbuttoned shirt and ripped jeans. A casual scarf tie completed the look.
The Parisian label Egonlab and the Belgian fashion house Dries Van Noten tend towards light shirts that stand out with decorations such as embroidery or color gradients. The Korean label Post Archive Faction even presented a completely silk, transparent jacket and various shirts and T-shirts that incorporated this lightness.
Other brands translated this feeling of effortlessness with flowing silhouettes, which gave the usually stiff men’s fashion a breath of fresh air. London-based menswear designer Kiko Kostadinov showed a loose poncho with a plunging neckline. Japanese label IM Men from the Issey Miyake universe and Michael Rider, in his first major menswear show for French fashion house Celine, both opted for a simple, monochrome set of a long sleeve top and wide trousers.
The Parisian brand Valette Studio gave classic men’s fashion a modern twist and a new interpretation. Designer Pierre-François Valette combined a simple shirt, which formed the top part, with a silk bottom part that turned into a train. This was combined with casual black trousers, resulting in a perfect symbiosis between the current trend and traditional men’s fashion.
Blazer and shorts
The looks with a blazer and short shorts are slightly more classic, but have a modern, sporty approach. The variation ranges from a black suit with matching trousers to a mix of patterns and colours. In addition to dressier shorts, there are also sporty models on display. These are combined with lace-up ballet shoes, boots and even slippers.
Rain shower
A similar hybrid approach was applied to outerwear, ideal for the following scenario: the hot days of the past week repeatedly led to thunderstorms with heavy rainfall. Your own raincoat is often not the most stylish update, especially with a more chic look.
The Japanese brands Beautiful People and Taakk, the Korean label Solid Homme and the French fashion house Saint Laurent proved that classic menswear goes well with such a practical jacket, if styled correctly. All these brands gave a previously simple look a playful twist with a sportier outerwear item.
I♥
Of course, streetwear was also indispensable this season. A true marketing classic made its comeback: the T-shirt with the ‘I ♥’ motif. Originally developed in the late 1970s by graphic designer Milton Glaser for a New York campaign, it is now a tourist staple that is continually reinterpreted for the catwalk.
The Parisian brand 3.Paradis replaced the heart with a dove, while the French capital-based label Ami and Doublet showed their love for Paris and Fashion Week. However, the Japanese streetwear brand also presented another version, worn with ‘scratch marks’, which symbolized its love for Puma. This was a nod to the German sports brand with which Doublet collaborated for the collection.
Three stripes on the catwalk
However, Puma was not the only sports brand from Herzogenaurach on the Paris catwalk. Direct competitor Adidas took the opportunity to present itself three times on another large playing field, in addition to the world championship in the United States, Canada and Mexico. The kick-off was of course for Y3, the collaboration label with Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto. His creations seemed inspired by trail running and hiking this season. For example, a Y3 running vest with bottle holders was on display.
Australian label Song For The Mute also continued its collaboration with Adidas. The focus was again on the shoes. This time special attention was paid to a new version of the Stan Smith tennis sneaker and the robust Traxion 1000 Hiker hiking shoe.
The most unexpected collaboration was with Rick Owens. After a break of almost ten years, Adidas and the American designer, known for his dark avant-garde collections, revived their partnership. This time Owens used the new Climacool technology, whose heat regulation also benefits the football players at the World Cup. The designer cooled his models with integrated fans in inflated tracksuits.
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