The competition is heating up. Swiss deeptech materials company Heiq makes a patented finishing product that it claims reduces surface temperatures by up to 5.4°F, while US-based Coolcore creates fabrics with evaporative and cooling technology built in at the fiber level. Brrr, based in the US, manufactures “triple chill effect” cooling fabrics that have been used by brands spanning from Kit and Ace to Finisterre. “It was the versatility of Brrr Triple Chill that drew us to the fabric,” says Adele Gingell, head of impact at Finisterre.
“The technology draws heat and moisture away from the skin to keep you cool and dry, while the quick-drying construction means you can move easily between activities and conditions,” she says. “The temperature regulation works just as well on a long hike in the heat as it does as a base layer in the cooler temperatures, and it felt like a natural addition to our material portfolio. It really comes back to what we’re about as a brand: getting people outside and keeping them comfortable so they can stay out there longer.”
While rising temperatures weren’t the original driver for incorporating the fabric, Gingell says the timing feels increasingly relevant given the recent record-breaking temperatures. “We’re investing further in this space,” she says. “Since launching, the response has shown us there’s a real appetite for it and we’re already designing more silhouettes. I think there’s a broader shift happening as well. UPF and cooling fabrics used to feel quite niche, very performance or outdoor-specific, but over the last few years, we’ve seen that change.”
Cooling clothing incorporated with fans are the next frontier, as seen on Rick Owens’s runway during the most recent Paris Fashion Week Men’s — a prescient concept considering the high temperatures. The inflatable track jackets, designed in collaboration with Adidas, are air conditioned with Adidas’s Climacool technology.
Japanese brand Hidesign also specializes in cooling and temperature-regulating garments, specifically designed with workers in mind. “As temperatures continue to rise, we are seeing increasing interest in cooling garments not only among workers in industrial environments, but also among the general public,” says brand president Hideo Yoshii. “Heat management is no longer an issue limited to specific professions or specialized environments, it’s become an important concern for commuting, outdoor activities, and everyday life. We believe that demand will continue to grow for products that combine functional performance with comfort and design suitable for daily wear.”
But getting these products to market is a challenge, and Hidesign doesn’t currently have a timeline for bringing its jackets to retail.
The bigger picture
Beneath all the talk of hot fashion shows, sleepless nights and stifling homes, there’s an uncomfortable truth: we’re living through the impacts of a human-made climate breakdown. And it is no longer a future concern, the climate crisis is happening here and now.
In this context, adaptation is non-negotiable, but brands can’t afford to focus solely on accommodating customers in newly scorching summers. They also need to consider the root cause of heatwaves and reduce fashion’s resource intensity. “I see demand and opportunity in brands that are reducing waste through the utilization of deadstock fabrics or reworking vintage materials,” says Mytheresa’s Jordan, pointing to Akki-Chan’s aloha shirts made from vintage silk kimonos or Rkive City’s reconstructed workwear.
Chopra, meanwhile, wants to see more brands following his lead and prioritizing local production to drastically cut emissions. “It’s nuts — cotton is going around the world five times before it actually gets to you,” he says. “What we are trying to address is [how to make] a fine shirt. Why are we trying to address that? Because of the weather, because the supply chain is crazy.”
