Author: VOG

The official Paris Fashion Week schedule is out. All eyes will be on three key debuts: Sarah Burton’s runway show for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford and Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten.Among the most notable absentees from the show schedule is Loewe, which is switching to a co-ed presentation format instead. (Loewe was absent from the Paris Men’s schedule in January, too.) This comes amid swirling rumours that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, previously of Proenza Schouler, are to succeed Jonathan Anderson at the Spanish house. Expect another season of intense fashion gossip.Altogether, the Autumn/Winter 2025 women’s ready-to-wear…

What’s more interesting is what we consider aspirational and why. In womenswear, body standards are shifting back to a thin-is-in mindset amid the Ozempic boom. Similarly in male body standards, we’re also seeing a shift towards the traditional vision of masculinity, shaped by the rise of conservative ideals. TikTok is rife with content on how to be an “alpha male”, and most of that boils down to being physically and socially dominant.“Thinness is historically related to white supremacy, so if we see a rise of conservatism we will see a rise of people trying to be as thin as possible.…

Kim Jones is stepping down from his role as artistic director of menswear at Dior, the house announced today.“I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the house’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations,” said Delphine Arnault, chairman and CEO of Dior, in a statement.“It was a true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio…

Sia Arnika’s Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) shows tend to be a spectacle.Last season, there were live flies buzzing around breeding boxes. For Autumn/Winter 2025, the set was a recreation of a fish auction house in Denmark, where the designer grew up. Show-goers could smell the salty scent of the seaweed, which was scattered on the floors between piles of snow (created using soap foam).“I’ve been in contact with Danish fish auctions to see if we can borrow some things for the set, and my parents are driving down from Denmark and collecting little things from the beach to add in,”…

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) Autumn/Winter 2025 is in full swing. And already, we’ve seen an energetic runway return from Nicklas Skovgaard, a large-scale presentation and dinner from Icelandic outerwear label 66North and a well-received runway debut from New Talent programme designers Bonnetje.Despite the excitement, the schedule at CPHFW this season looks very different compared to a year ago. In the summer, Copenhagen’s crown jewel, megabrand Ganni, followed Danish export Cecilie Bahnsen and moved to Paris Fashion Week for SS25. Then, in November, Danish label Saks Potts permanently closed after 10 years of doing business. (Founders Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts…

“So what are your main takeaways from this menswear season?” Vogue Business’s indefatigable Paris correspondent Laure Guilbault asked me as she whipped out her phone. Before she could press record, however, we were firmly directed off the Hermès runway — the show was about to start. I never caught up with Laure again, so here goes.“I’ve never seen anything like this in 15 years,” observed a brand founder on the first day in Paris. He was talking about the flattening (and in some cases decline) in the consumer appetite for luxury. That slowdown has affected budgets and temperaments; this season,…

It’s Martens at Martin. Glenn Martens is the new creative director of Maison Margiela, the company announced today.“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” said OTB chairman Renzo Rosso. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in…

Whether a presentation or a show, performance is a crucial component of Skovgaard’s brand. “My collections are about the narrative and the character that you can make out of the clothes,” he says. “For me, that is why I started loving fashion when I was a child. I loved the theatre of it, how you can transform through clothes. I want the fun element of fashion, which I think is key to my creativity.”Growing gradually, learning from other brandsWhile he’s always keen to pick up new stockists, he’s also content growing gradually and forming long-term partnerships with stores. “I am…

Mukherjee put deep thought into every aspect of the 25th anniversary presentation, which was held on India’s Republic Day weekend and is rumoured to have cost around $7 million. “This is a 25-year celebration of the Sabyasachi school of thought, where I’m revisiting the ideals of past collections but modernising them for a new generation,” the designer tells Vogue Business. “It is not a retrospection but an introspection.”“Sabyasachi’s impact on Indian fashion is unparalleled. His vision, his tenacity, his unwavering commitment to excellence… it’s all simply unmatched,” says the anonymous founder of Diet Sabya, India’s answer to the infamous @Diet_Prada.…

Vogue: What categories in fashion are you excited about right now?I’m really into ready-to-wear at the moment because it’s just the core of what the house stands for.Vogue: My colleague José Criales-Unzueta recently wrote how “menswear learnt to embrace the internet’s thirst”, noting that some houses now focus their efforts on the red carpet and skip men’s runways in favour of co-ed shows. What are your thoughts?I think you can’t show the breadth of work on a red carpet. The red carpet, the actors are going where they want to, they don’t want to stand out too much, they just…