Author: VOG

This couture season nicely surpassed our expectations. Staples like Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino, Fendi, Givenchy, Alexis Mabille and Alexandre Vauthier may have been absent with many of the houses in transition, but it turns out there’s always a bright side. “The absence of some big brands created room for smaller brands to shine,” says Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the curator behind blockbuster exhibitions on legacy houses like Jean Paul Gaultier and Mugler.And then, of course, there were the debuts. “The debuts have been good. [Jonathan Anderson’s debut at] Dior was good, Celine was good, Margiela was great,” says David Martin, editor-in-chief…

Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations.Have you ever tried to find a chic, functional ski sock? Jenni Lee, founder of luxury socks and homeware brand Comme Si (known for its luxe socks and well-tailored basics) tried, five years ago when she started going on annual ski trips with her husband. “I thought, ‘Wait, why aren’t there any beautifully designed socks that are also really functional?’” she says. (This writer has also tried, and failed, miserably.)So came to be the first…

The spectacle Martens just delivered, on the other hand, had its feet firmly in the world we live in today. Yes, the models wore masks, just like the models in founder Martin Margiela’s Artisanal shows, the plastic covers resembled those of Martin’s degree show when he was in Antwerp (Thank you, Alexandre Samson, for the tip), and the corsets were reminiscent of Galliano. But the masks this time didn’t ensure the attention stayed focused on the clothes as Martin Margiela intended when he started using them in 1989. Instead, they completed the feeling of gloom and anarchy found in the…

Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations.“We are like kids at Christmas today. We have been holding these news in for months now and we are so excited to share it with you,” said Schiaparelli CEO Delphine Bellini at a press conference taking place at the house’s historic HQ at 21 Place Vendôme in Paris this morning. The conference was called on the occasion of ‘Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art’ — a new retrospective set to open at the V&A South Kensington,…

Part of the specific challenge with Maison Margiela, he continues, is just how influential the founder’s thinking became across all of fashion. “I myself am one of those children of the Margiela generation. And I think Martin is more than a designer, he is a school that has changed a lot of people’s thinking… The Japanese were a bit before, but I think in Europe it was Martin who made this change, this thought that garments don’t have to follow a classic structure. It was trying to find a different way of looking at beauty, of looking at construction and…

“I think it’s going to be a hit,” Sidney Toledano, senior advisor to LVMH chair and CEO Bernard Arnault, tells Vogue Business. “Michael is comfortable in Paris; he understands the Parisienne, but an international Parisienne.”On the playful use of the logo, Rider said: “ A sense of levity and humour is sorely missed in fashion. I would never want to be perceived as ironic or cynical, but having a sense of humour in the space of luxury is a beautiful thing. Logos are something from the ’60s and ’70s that Madame Vipiana used frequently in a way that was always chic.…

Here’s an example of fate putting you where you should be: there was a girl at the airline who said, “When you go to London, you can stay at a boarding house on Sloane Street for $6.” I did, and I remember walking down King’s Road and at the time everything was grey — the sky, the buildings and the way people dressed. All of a sudden, I see this door — it’s got a kind of canvas cover and it’s painted with lots of colours. I was like, “What the hell?” And this sound was coming from it —…

For labels like Nouchi’s, it’s become impossible to keep up with the bigger players. Pharrell Williams took over the courtyard of the Centre Pompidou for his Louis Vuitton show, and Anderson’s Dior runway was decorated with two art pieces worth millions, which were directly transported from the Louvre and the National Museum of Scotland. Who could even come close?Perhaps this is why Nicolas Di Felice of Courrèges hosted a summer kick-off rave in the outskirts of Paris in lieu of his usual menswear presentation this season. Courrèges only has runway shows during ready-to-wear season, with men’s being a showroom-only affair.…

Become a Vogue Business Member to receive unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our Beauty and TikTok Trend Trackers, Member-only newsletters and exclusive event invitations.Two and a half years ago, Vogue Business published a story titled ‘Why menswear is falling behind on size inclusivity’, our first size inclusivity report that tracked plus-size, mid-size and straight-size representation across the menswear shows in Milan and Paris. At the time, eight out of the 69 shows included at least one plus-size model (EU 56+), while 22 featured mid-size talent (EU 48-54).This season, only four shows included at least one plus-size model, and…

“Hey — wanted you to be the first to see details of the collection from tonight’s LV Men’s show. Sending some pics soon,” Pharrell Williams wrote in a DM to Albert Ayal, the talent scout behind the fashion Instagram account @UpNextDesigner, on 24 June. The message came via the @Skateboard Instagram, where the creative director and his team share behind-the-scenes shots from Louis Vuitton. Ayal immediately took a screenshot and shared it to his Instagram story.Ayal wasn’t the only fashion creator with a luxury brand sliding into the DMs, or getting more personal, this menswear season. Bally messaged sustainable fashion creator…