New York vindt haar balans in beroemde gezichten, wereldwijde aanwezigheid en politieke statements

New York Fashion Week has officially wrapped up its SS25 season and before we move on to its British counterpart in London, we look back at some of the highlights from a week in the Big Apple. And what a week it was. So much so that one question continues to loom within the wider fashion community: has New York City got its shine back? With a glut of celebrities, the rise of previously European-focused giants and an avalanche of shows that caused a social media storm, the answer might just be yes.

New York’s status has often been seen as fading in the shadow of Milan and Paris, two cities where many of its born-and-bred designers have flocked in search of greater international recognition. Yet this year, there was a sense of change in the air. Part of that can be attributed to the concurrent US Open, which allowed a flood of trend-savvy A-listers to move effortlessly between the courts and the runway. The emphasis on sport didn’t stop there. In the wake of the Paris 2024 Olympics, athletes graced the front rows of many shows and even made their catwalk debuts. Kim Shui enlisted the services of gymnast Jordan Chiles, while gold medalist Noah Lyles became the face of Willy Chavarria’s show.

Sports stars take center stage

Here, Lyles was dressed in a look that was meant to reflect the concept of Chavarria’s collection, which was meant to honor the immigrants of “América”—the collection’s title. Models emerged in front of an American flag, dressed in outfits meant to “embody the essence of American ingenuity.” This included modern takes on quintessentially American items, such as cowboy hats and American football gear. A key collaboration was with Adidas, a partnership that, according to a press release, grew out of “a longstanding mutual inspiration and affinity between the two brands.” Across 22 pieces, they explored and challenged traditional sportswear and fashion norms, taking sportswear classics just beyond recognition—for example, boxing shorts were transformed into a high-slit maxi skirt.

Famous faces extended well beyond the sports world and helped bolster NYFW’s online presence, as fans enjoyed spotting their “favorites” at various shows. It’s a culture common in Paris and Milan, where star-studded guest lists typically draw large crowds. Alaïa, a brand once exclusively dedicated to Paris, took New York by storm, even signing superstar Rihanna to join an already impressive roster of celebrity guests that included Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista.

Creative director Pieter Mulier set himself the task of defining modern American fashion under the roof of the Guggenheim Museum, where he honored local pioneers like Charles James and Halston, as noted in the collection’s show notes. Mulier said, “For me, American beauty means freedom, of body and mind. A simplicity, a modernity and directness, a purity. For both Alaïa and myself, America is a home away from home. I lived in New York for three years. It made me who I am today. And in the ’80s, for Azzedine Alaïa, it was a city that embraced his clothes and design philosophy, where he opened his first store.”

One brand that has stayed true to its home turf is none other than Tommy Hilfiger, whose eponymous designer has always kept New York as a solid base. Speaking ahead of his show, Hilfiger told Elle UK: “There’s been criticism of New York Fashion Week for a while, and we wanted to put that out there. It felt important to show here. New York is our birthplace: it’s where we started almost 40 years ago, and it’s where I’m originally from, so we wanted to come back home.”

After a year away, Hilfiger returned to NYFW in full force with a spectacle he dubbed “fashion-tainment.” Guests including Damson Idris and Winnie Harlow were ushered aboard a refurbished Staten Island Ferry to witness a collection that fittingly referenced nautical themes combined with Hilfiger’s preppy signature codes. The show’s finale featured a surprise performance by the Wu-Tang Clan, who emerged from the audience and came out of retirement.

New York’s emerging names remain important

It would be unfair to attribute New York’s apparent return to status solely to the presence of celebrities and their appearances at the shows of more globally recognized brands. The city has worked hard to support its growing list of rising stars, efforts that were bolstered by the appointment of American designer Thom Browne as chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Browne had set out to breathe new life into the American fashion system and to strengthen the presence of New York-based designers in particular. This year was no exception, as alongside the globally established names, New York continued to promote its more local and emerging designers, who enjoyed an increase in engagement.

CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists were among those making a mark this season. Sebastien Ami made his NYFW debut, with the brand’s duo, Marianne and Sebastien Amisial, taking inspiration from vintage designs for their collection. Grace Ling, meanwhile, also made waves with her ‘Neanderthal’ collection, which explored the relationship between people and the spaces they occupy. Sculptural elements referenced surrealism, with the use of 3D printing technology taking centre stage.

The encouragement to explore a new perspective on life was also seen on the runway of NYFW veteran Collina Strada, who chose the surprising location of Marble Cemetery in the East Village to explore the idea of ​​“Mother Earth.” A series of airy, floral looks graced the runway, many paired with grassy details like green tones in the hair or even a lawnmower – a reference to designer Hillary Taymour’s call for people to “touch the grass.” She explained the theme in a press release, saying: “In the intensity of this global election year, I longed to reconnect with the essential. It’s a reminder to escape the distractions of our phones and reconnect with what’s truly important.”

While Taymour tried to provide a distraction from the chaos of this year, politics and social issues remained central to NYFW, with the U.S. election looming large and stirring debate within the creative community. Even before fashion week began, U.S. department store Macy’s, along with the CFDA and Vogue, set the tone with a rally organized in partnership with Fashion For Our Future to promote voting rights and encourage participation in democracy. The event drew about 1,000 people, some of whom wore outfits designed by Zac Posen, and was seen as an opportunity to highlight “our collective commitment to voting, positive change and social issues,” according to CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.

Political statements were also prominent at Area’s New York show. In honor of its 10th anniversary, the label teamed up with dating platform Tinder and U.S. nonprofit Planned Parenthood to raise awareness of the country’s restrictions on reproductive health care, a topic that’s high on the agenda during this election year. In addition to Area’s signature theatrical pieces, the brand also unveiled “Bans off our Bodies” shirts, printed with red hands that trace the contours of the body, with Tinder’s flame logo toward the neckline.

Another subtle political message was on display in Prabal Gurung’s ‘Holi Hope’ collection, which was presented in part as part of the designer’s rethinking of his relationship with America and its connection to the Hindu festival of Holi. Following a flurry of feminine silhouettes, many fashioned with pleated techniques that evoked a Grecian flair, Gurung sent a group of models down the runway in white “suffragette” outfits, who then threw up bright pink pigment. In a note to the press, Gurung said he was partly inspired by the rise of female leadership, which had brought a new sense of hope for the future. To further underscore his point, the designer appeared in his finale in a T-shirt that read “vote” on the front, and Harris/Waltz – the American Democratic candidates – on the back.

It’s clear that New York is seemingly on the road to recovery, and for the designers who return year after year, it remains a supportive platform and a potential gateway to the wider fashion world. With the added presence of global names including Off-White, Ronald van der Kemp and Toteme, an aspirational revolution seems to be underway. Now the question is: can the CFDA and NYFW keep up the fire in the seasons to come?