Demna’s Gucci – and his cast of characters – is official here. Of fifteen debuts (!) That take place during the 2026 spring season, there are countless ways in which designers can distinguish themselves in the midst of all the hustle and bustle. Some, like Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Jonathan Anderson at Diorchose subtle soft launchesin which they offered casual teasers via custom-made red-runner looks.
Others, like Matthieu Blazy at Chanelthings kept things extremely mysterious to build up the tension. In Demna’s case, a hint was hung from it mystical Around his influence behind the scenes.
Gucci launches Demna’s first lookbook for MFW
The Cruise 2026-Runwaywho was presented in the brand’s archive in May, showed subtle hints of the Georgian designer – fake bold coats and brightly colored silhouettes inspired by the 1980s.
Now, in the last days of London Fashion Week and just before Milan Fashion WeekGucci suddenly dropped a lookbook with the title ‘La Famiglia‘, with which it officially announced the start of a new era. (Former Gucci Creatrative Director Alessandro Michele actually did the same with his recent debut at Valentinowith which he surprised the industry with a sturdy lookbook just before the catwalk season.)
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The collection is presented as a study in ‘Gucciness‘or an investigation into the core principles of the house codes: intersecting G’s, tricolor stripes and an almost preppy sense of styling. (And to be honest, a bomber jacket with relief over a rugby shirt with round collar and combining Little Edie sunglasses is simply timeless chic.)
The release talks about ‘difficult eleganceAnd “spezzatura‘, and since Michele’s period brought a constructed form of glamor at Gucci, this means a return to the Classic Italian method From instinctive dress.
Of course there are the characteristic Dema: A muscular bare breast under a bomber jacket, a slender black top with sequins, and a classic Old-Hollywood feeling for evening clothing. But even when those characteristics come up, they are completely translated by the lens of one New fashion house – As well as a short walk through Kering’s proverbial corridors.
It’s a lesser one, More detailed Design approach. Moreover, the wonderfully sensual jeans with Horsebit bags provide a necessary dose of sex appeal-for both Demna and Gucci.
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Demna’s core ideology As a designer, the most clearly emerges in the encyclopedia of characters in the lookbook. He often rotates by a series referential archetypingsomething that was clearly shown in his couture shed at Balenciaga.
Every character, whether it is the excessively picky but fashionable ‘Primadonna‘is or the anxiety is driven by teenage’Incazzata‘(The’ angry ‘or’ the fiery ‘), represents a provisional – and humorous – sketch of the person on which Demna wants to place his designs. From there, he can freely build on these malleable identities.
For now, however, these new items of clothing remain exactly that: archetypingthis time playing on the pages of the lookbook. Later this week the industry will settle in Milan for the planned cinematic presentation From the brand, and then the real new era of Gucci will begin.
