With a history of more than 180 years, Takashimaya is one of Japan’s most traditional and renowned premium department stores. The company is known for its carefully curated range of luxury fashion, international designer brands and high-quality lifestyle products.
For Shuhei Iwasa, women’s fashion buyer at Takashimaya, Berlin Fashion Week is a permanent fixture on the international fashion calendar. In this interview he explains why Berlin is becoming increasingly interesting for the Japanese market, with its focus on sustainability and creative diversity. Iwasa also discusses which Berlin labels impressed him this season and why the story behind a brand is just as important to him as the product itself.
What makes Berlin Fashion Week different from the other fashion weeks?
I regularly visit fashion weeks in Paris, Milan and other cities. Berlin may be smaller, but that makes it different. While other fashion weeks often revolve around major brands or designers, Berlin Fashion Week has a clear focus on sustainability. Sustainable concepts are combined here with good design and creative quality; a rare balance. Moreover, each brand tells its own story, which gives fashion week a unique identity. For me it reflects the culture of Berlin and I find that particularly exciting.
What makes Berlin interesting for you as a buyer?
Japan has many fashion-conscious customers, so we are constantly looking for new brands. However, it is difficult to find labels that combine sustainability, good design and creative quality in equal measure. I see a lot of potential in Berlin. That is why Berlin Fashion Week is an important platform for us. You see a lot of Japanese buyers here now.
Which brands particularly stood out to you this season?
I found Fruché interesting. The choice of materials impressed me. The silhouettes, styling and combination of different materials also demonstrate the designer’s strong, signature style. We have been eyeing Buzigahill for a while and have already purchased from them. The brand is developing very well and growing steadily.
Haderlump was great too. I was impressed by the balance between elegance and strength created by the unique designs and silhouettes. The designers have now established a very clear identity and made a name for themselves internationally. The collection was excellent.
Are you planning to expand your range with more Berlin labels?
We follow many brands closely. Our initial focus is on developing our existing range and gradually adding new labels. We always check whether the products are a good fit for the Japanese market and the needs of our customers, especially in terms of fit and proportions.
Which adjustments are especially important for the Japanese market?
The fit plays a major role. If necessary, we have garments adjusted or we work with the brands to adjust sizes for the Japanese market.
Cultural differences are also important. Many Japanese customers prefer garments with a slimmer fit, as oversized silhouettes are sometimes perceived as sloppy rather than stylish.
Are you looking for specific colors or designs? Many collections in Berlin are characterized by a fairly subdued color palette.
When it comes to international brands, we are particularly interested in designs, patterns and colors that are not available in Japan. That’s why I would definitely like to see more color, not just black and white. In particular, unusual color combinations and hybrid design approaches make international brands attractive to Japanese customers.
How is the Japanese fashion market developing at the moment?
The market has recovered significantly since the pandemic. At the same time, consumer behavior has changed. People still spend money on fashion, but they think more carefully about what they spend it on.
In the luxury segment we still see strong demand, especially for handbags. Fashion trends vary greatly by category. Therefore, the market cannot be described in general terms; it very much depends on the product in question.
Consumer confidence in Europe is currently quite weak. Do you see a similar trend in Japan?
There are some parallels, but the situation is not identical. In Japan, people are also paying more attention to their expenses than before the pandemic. Nevertheless, interest in fashion remains high. The demand is there, but people are shopping more consciously.
What influence do social media and influencers have on the Japanese market?
Influencers certainly play a role, especially among younger audiences. Major luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering work closely with Korean pop stars and K-pop idols. This affects many young consumers. Despite this, they are now making more conscious decisions about what they spend their money on.
Last question: how important is the story behind a brand?
This is crucial for me as a department store buyer. Good products alone are not enough; I also want to understand the personalities of the designers and the story behind a brand. Department stores in particular stand for trust, quality and credibility. That is why storytelling is a decisive factor in our selection process. Our customers expect not only beautiful products, but also authenticity and a clear brand identity.
