There is an extensive production process behind each item of clothing in a store. In the series from needle to wire, FashionUnited speaks with an expert on how everyday items and accessories are achieved. This time: the production of jeans, explained by Imogen Nulty-Verstraeten.
Nulty-Verstraeten is an experienced denim specialist with more than 18 years of experience in design, development and merchandising within the casualwear, men’s fashion and denim sector. At Scotch & Soda she led the denim department for more than 13 years. She is active in the Denimcommunity, including via the Future Fits Forum on the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam and as co -founder of the Denim Deal. Since February 2025 she has been a design manager at Pepe Jeans.
How jeans are made
There is a lot of care and attention when making good jeans, IMOGEN emphasizes Nulty-Verstraeten. “You need a lot of quality control points – while weaving, washing the fabric, sewing, and ultimately when it fits different body types. Good communication with suppliers is crucial. If everyone is aligned and strives for the same quality stand, you get a good end result.”
“Big brands often have an internal technical team. For Pepe Jeans, for example, we have a team of specialized pattern makers who are busy full -time with fits and dimensions. That is really a luxury and makes a huge difference.”
“For fashion -conscious consumers it is important to read how denim products are made. It is good to look as standard at the origin of the materials on the washing label. If you cannot find information about it on the product, in the store or on the website, that is often not a good sign.”
“Incidentally, the country of production does not say everything. It is mainly about how something is made, not true. Of course, some countries are known for their quality – such as Japan or Italy – but even there things can go wrong. It depends entirely on how much attention the process is paid.”
Weaving the yarn
“Everything starts with the fabric. The basic material for jeans is usually cotton. That cotton is spun into yarn, and the yarns are then woven into fabric. A clothing producer buys this fabric from a selected supplier.”
“The substance usually consists of two types of yarns: an indigo-rejected yarn (the warp) and a white yarn (the impact), which together form the typical denim tissue. The structure, color and the type of tissue can vary.”
“The substance arrives on large roles and must first ‘relax’ – in other words, be rolled out and ventilated. This helps prevent shrinkage and distortion to prevent during cutting. Every role can be something else: in color, yarn or criminal percentages.”
Cut and sew
“After relaxing, the fabric is stacked in layers and digitally or hand cut in separate parts of the pants – such as the pipes, waistband, bags, etc.. Each pattern part gets a label so that the employees in the factory know what to do.”
“Then all those loose parts go to the sewing department. There they are assembled by workers who are each specialized in a specific action: one turns on the bags, another makes the fly, another confirms the waistband. In small factories, one person sometimes takes multiple steps, but in larger factories the process is often divided into an efficient workflow.”
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The dry and wet treatments
“After sewing comes the ‘dry’ process, such as sanding or applying wear spots. In the past this often happened by hand, for example with sandpaper on a mannequin.”
“Some factories are now very advanced. They simulate the effect of worn denim without water or chemicals. With one of our suppliers in Tunisia, a robot hangs onto jeans, uses a laser to create effects and places them back on the conveyor belt – fully automated.”
“This is followed by the ‘wet’ process: washing. Chemical treatments such as bleaching or the use of potassium permanganate make the jeans lighter. Stonewashing – where pumbles are literally added to the wash cycle – the traditional way to create a lighter color are often replaced by more environmentally friendly alternatives.”
“In the past, one jeans were sometimes used as much as 7,000 liters of fresh water. Nowadays that water can be recycled and purified in special systems within the factory. You can’t drink it, but it can be used again in the next production process.”
“There are now also alternative methods that no longer use water or chemicals, such as e-flow technology (where air is used instead of water) or ozone machines that clean denim without harmful substances.”
“Manufacturers continue to innovate, especially in the field of sustainability and efficiency. Companies such as Jeanologia and Tonello are pioneers in sustainable washing and finishing techniques. They are constantly looking for new ways to make the production process less burdensome for the environment.”
Last step: Finishing and packaging
“After washing, the jeans are properly checked. Any errors are then repaired. Then all extras are added, such as labels, rivets, knots and the leather or jacron patch on the back. These details are only applied after washing, so that they are not damaged during the washing process. Finally, the jeans are neatly.”
