Twenty years after the first edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week (AFW), Amsterdam fashion brand Martan shows that the current fashion industry is in challenging times with a fashion show called ‘Tempest Tides’. Mountains of textile waste are piling up, the weather is becoming more extreme, but the journey to not give up as a fashion brand will be like a perfect storm.
Martan sets the tone for Amsterdam Fashion Week. The brand shows once again that it is possible to create a complete high-end ready-to-wear collection without using new fabrics. FashionUnited visits the show and afterwards speaks with designer Douwe de Boer outside the Conscious Hotel Westerpark about the show and expansion plans.
Martan kicks off Amsterdam Fashion Week
Martan’s spring/summer 2025 collection features items that are familiar to the brand: asymmetric tops, rope jackets, popular Martan caps and lots of colour. The colour palette is inspired by nature: from green tones to deep orange, sage green, heart red and rust brown.
It is striking that the collection contains several new items, such as large travel bags and caps made of innovative material. “For this collection we were inspired by sailing and stormy weather. The decor is made of sail, and we have also incorporated that material into our accessories. We are constantly expanding our material portfolio and this season we have added spinnakers.”
With the show, Martan draws attention to the fact that luxury ready-to-wear collections can be made from textiles that would otherwise be thrown away. “27 million kilograms of high-quality bed linen and tablecloths are thrown away each year in Europe alone,” read the show notes on the chairs of the guests at the Martan show. Unnecessary, De Boer believes.
The entire collection is made from old material. “Why produce new material when we can dress six more generations with what already exists? Sustainability is no longer a choice, but a necessity. This is the core of our business and I believe that every fashion brand should move in that direction.”
Is the Netherlands too small for Martan?
Martan is growing and ready for international expansion, De Boer told FashionUnited after the show. The brand is for sale at Zeeburgerpad 51 in Amsterdam where it has its own showroom and at retailers in the Netherlands that have sustainability high on the agenda, such as Margreeth Olsthoorn in Rotterdam and X-Bank in Amsterdam.
Recently, Martan brought in seven new groups of investors who believe in the brand’s growth plans. During the recent Copenhagen Fashion Week, Martan made a debut on the schedule with a pop-up event. In short: Outside the borders of the Netherlands is where the brand wants to be.
The designer does not want to reveal exactly how the brand wants to steer its course. “We are focusing on international expansion. Copenhagen was our first step in that direction and it was a success. We left a good impression there and made many valuable contacts. We hope that this positive development will continue.”
Martan is an Amsterdam fashion brand specialized in circular fashion. The brand makes fashion that is completely upcycled from luxury hotel linen. In addition to De Boer, Diek Pothoven and Eugénie Mulier are co-founders of Martan.
Amsterdam Fashion Week takes place from Tuesday 3 September to Friday 6 September in and around Amsterdam. FashionUnited will be there to report on all the highlights and trends.
