Despite the impact of the fashion industry on people and the environment, we continue to buy affordable, trendy clothing from fast fashion brands and retail giants. How come?
The idea for this article comes from a recent article by De Correspondent: ‘The successful Bob campaign shows: don’t tell people what to do’ (tip!).
The core of the story is that if you want to bring about behavioral change, it is better to focus on removing obstacles in the environment than on changing the person himself.
People have known for a long time that driving under the influence of alcohol was dangerous, De Correspondent describes, but the real change in behavior only occurred when the Bob campaign removed an obstacle: the uncomfortable conversation about who would stay sober.
While reading I thought about the clothing industry.
Milieu Centraal recently launched a free online training to encourage women buy less new clothes. There are also numerous documentaries and stories in the media about unsustainable practices in the sector (I also wrote some of them myself).
Is awareness still the problem?
If I’m honest, I don’t think so. Most people know that buying nice, cheap clothes over and over again and throwing away our “old” clothes is anything but sustainable. And that dirt cheap fashion items are not responsibly produced.
What prevents consumers from making sustainable clothing choices?
Sustainable fashion should be more accessible and the norm
Perhaps the simplest answer is that context in fashion is one of the inhibiting forces. Simply put: People want it building a more sustainable wardrobebut the environment makes that difficult.
Fast fashion dominates the market and tempts us with low prices and nice trendy items.
Sustainable fashion should be cheaper and easier to obtain.
One way to achieve this is, as sustainable experts have often advocated was advised in a recently published report on a circular fashion marketto reflect the impact on people and the environment in the price of fashion items, a concept that True Pricing is mentioned. If the social and ecological costs are passed on, polluting fast fashion becomes more expensive and responsible fashion becomes cheaper.
But beware, we cannot buy a green wardrobe. According to the sustainable fashion expert Jasmien Wynants is the essence ‘buy less, choose well and make it last‘ as the late Vivienne Westwood used to say.
And as NRC clearly headlined last year; the most sustainable item of clothing is already hanging in your closet.
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Extend the lifespan of products
In a circular economy, which is aimed for by 2050, is about extending the lifespan of products. How are we going to ensure that people cherish and maintain their garments (for example by… repair) and wear until they are threadbare?
Shouldn’t we perhaps be learning in school about how clothes are made, how to care for your items and even learn how to put on a button, darn a sock or replace a zipper?
And a much bigger idea: shouldn’t the fashion industry itself dictate something different? Finally, the current focus on trends and ‘new’ is contrary to the principles of sustainability.
What if fashion companies would slow downwould focus on (high) quality and already in the design phase, think about reuse and recycling at a much later stage?
Although it was not about fashion items, the Belgian newspaper De Tijd recently investigated the rigorous circular idea: ‘Is it possible to make money with things that last forever?’ (Also highly recommended).
Of course there are also smaller things that can be done to bet on pillars of the circular economy.
Maybe you remember Patagonia’s ad campaign from years ago with the slogan ‘Don’t buy this jacket’? These types of campaigns can help challenge consumers to rethink and emphasize their purchasing behavior reduce or recycle instead of always buying new things.
Repair work offering or facilitating is a step in the right direction.
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Reward and encourage circular efforts
Behavioral change among consumers and companies should also be more stimulated by the government, say experts.
Consider, for example, the simple suggestion to reduce or abolish VAT on second-hand clothing to make it cheaper and more attractive.
Furthermore, there is currently the task of taking action against the questionable or downright harmful practices of Chinese giants such as one Shein and Temu.
Jan Meermandirector of trade organization INretail, said recently that the platforms are sending a tsunami of cheap, often untested products to Europe through massive web sales, leading to market disruption, product insecurity and a lack of sustainability.
He shouted politicians to take urgent actionboth nationally and at European level. One of the first things that can be done import duties apply to all clothing orders from outside the EU (now this is only on orders above 150 euros).
But beware, consumers also have a responsibility. In the case of the Shein and Temu’s you may wonder whether you should want to buy this. Because it does matter where you spend your money.
Making a positive difference
When faced with major complex problems such as climate change and negative reporting about it, it is sometimes difficult not to feel powerless. The thought “what can I change as one person?” often leads to passivity.
Maybe that also applies to this fashion problem. Yes, the situation is complicated and sustainability is mainly the task for our policy makers and fashion companies/retail giants. But, also that of all of us. An assignment for you and me. Make a positive difference through small, achievable steps that you can take.
There are countless ideas for professionals: Retailers, buy more sustainable clothing for your fashion store. Designers, use more sustainable and high-quality fabrics in the collections. Clothing brands, take a closer look at the supply chain and see how you can improve things in terms of people and the environment. Investors, finance sustainable innovations, start-ups or textile-to-textile recycling companies.
And for everyone: make well-informed decisions. Think of the inspiring pioneers, entrepreneurs and slow fashion labels. Support brands you like and let them know that we appreciate their (sustainability) efforts.
Ask questions about production, working conditions and, for example, climate objectives. Demand more transparency.
All this has an impact and collective action certainly makes a difference.
Video: ‘And now it’s over: Shein’ I The Evening Show with Arjen Lubach from two weeks ago (October 2024).
Sources:
– The FashionUnited archive and conversations with experts for previously published background articles and the article ‘To buy or not to buy: the temptation of cheap clothing’ by sustainability journalist Simone Preussfrom June 2015.
– De Correspondent article ‘The successful Bob campaign shows: don’t tell people what to do’ by Emy Demkes & Hans van Emmerik, from October 3, 2024.
– The NRC article ‘The most sustainable garment? That’s already in your closet’ by Joost Pijpker and Juliët Boogaard, from January 3, 2023.
– De Tijd article ‘Is it possible to make money with things that last forever’ by Stephanie de Smedt, from March 2, 2024.
– Parts of this article text were generated with an artificial intelligence (AI) tool and then edited.
