In just two editions, Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week (MBBFW) has been able to position itself as one of the most interesting events in the emerging international fashion world. The Romanian event is building an ambitious platform, driven by important institutional alliances-such as the camera Nazional Della Moda Italiana (CNMI)-the support of top sponsors such as Mercedes-Benz and a strong dedication to the creative talent of Eastern Europe.
This strategic combination does not fall from the sky. It is a reaction to the growing fame of Romania as a destination for luxury production-with companies such as Louis Vuitton and Moncler that move to the country-and to the interest in consolidating a fashion ecosystem with its own identity, that can compete with and collaborate with other regional caption, or the conceptesty.
“Talent alone is not enough nowadays: strategy and knowledge are essential to find your way in this industry,” emphasized Roxana Voloseniuc – co -founder of the event with businessman Mario Antico – during a conference aimed at young designers who opened the event. After the pandemic, they both identified an urgent need to create a space that would help revive the fashion ecosystem in Romania, after many of the most important structures had disappeared, from magazines to showrooms.
Today, the reconstruction is starting to bear fruit. The second edition was attended by international buyers – from Italy to Japan – influencers and specialized media. FashionUnited traveled to Bucharest to follow the direction of the new fashion landscape in Eastern Europe up close, who are the most important players and to discover why we now have to pay attention to it.
A regional showcase with global ambitions
The show was oversee by co -founder Roxana Voloseniuc, also editor -in -chief of Elle Romania – the most influential publication in the country since a large part of the competition during the pandemic has stopped activities. The planning brought together more than 20 designers from Romania, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary, Moldova and Italy.
Although most presentations were held in the National Art Museum of Bucharest, some companies – such as Almaz, Nissa, VOL and Manokhi – opted for alternative locations.
The national brand Manokhi chose to organize a private event with Chiara Ferragni as a hostess. The brand specializes in handmade leather with a powerful appearance that international celebrities Has seduced, and has positioned itself in the luxury segment with a clear international appearance, but retains its roots in Romania and is considered one of the most relevant contemporary brands in the country.
Modest aesthetics, powerful messages
In terms of aesthetics, this edition opted for refined elegance and confident femininity. Neutral shades such as white, black and beige dominated the catwalks, with nocturnal winks in the form of glitter, lingerie references and close-fitting silhouettes. Nevertheless, the lack of body diversity on the catwalk – a recurring theme in most presentations – caused some proposals to lose their impact by ignoring body diversity.
In this line of neutral shades, the Moldavian designer Violette, behind the Rxquette label, presented a theatrical and delicate collection that fluctuated between the male and the intimate ones. From Backstage, every sting of her elongated silhouettes could be seen: classic customization re -interpreted through transparencies and handmade details – embroidery, lace, veils – who sketched a sober, almost performative femininity. “Bucharest has a raw but honest energy,” explains the designer, who now lives in Paris and chose this city as a launch platform because of its strong emotional bond with the local creative scene.
“For our knigd pieces we work together with a small factory in Oradea, Transylvania. It is a family studio that specializes in handmade items of clothing made of natural fibers.
In the meantime, with the Romanian M.Marquise show, the wide-ranges-which fought in the front row for attention for each head movement-were the real stars on the catwalk, integrated into a proposal that was as simple as refined.
Color that makes you enthusiastic
Unlike this chromatic restraint, Ami Amalia stole the show. Her collection of colorful and emotionally knitwear managed to move the audience thanks to an intimate and well -executed story. “They have succeeded in combining creativity and functionality in a timeless way,” said Risako Genno, a Japanese buyer of the Hankyu department store, who emphasized the company as one of its favorites.
“The Romanian creative scene is incredibly lively and full of potential. There is a clear sense of individuality among the designers and artists, and I find the combination of traditional influences with modern innovation particularly interesting. It is exciting to see how the local scene develops and gets worldwide recognition,” said the buyer.
In the same style of distinctive proposals, Alessandra Sipa opted for provocation and a punk aesthetics: transparencies, lace and layering, and a combative, lively attitude, as sharp as her torn tights.
Design for a purpose
In addition to purely aesthetics, MBBFW strengthens its position as a curatorial platform that supports designers with a message, solid carrots and a critical vision. The expectations were high for the Ukrainian companies Kseniachnaider and Litkovska, and both delivered.
Kseniachnaider presented a collection that brought denim to new dimensions, both literally and conceptually. With trousers in exaggerated, almost sculptural silhouettes, and jackets that defied the traditional construction, the company confirmed its characteristic playful tone.
In the meantime, Litkovska opted for a sober and in -depth conceptual collection, in which cultural references are interwoven with a refined utilitarian aesthetics. Wide silhouettes, structured stratification and newspaper prints as a symbol of social and political criticism characterized its proposal.
“Read about politics, not just about fashion. Everything that happens, has influence on your consumers,” recalled designer Massimiliano Giornetti, representative of Polimoda, the young people during the opening conference we mentioned earlier.
Although the fashion world is a bubble, we came across an extreme right -wing demonstration immediately after arrival in Bucharest in response to the cancellation of the December 2024 presidential election.
The populist Cicipescu, disqualified for alleged Russian interference and abuse of artificial intelligence, was in the epicenter of a political crisis that keeps the country in a climate of uncertainty.
New talents in sight
The next edition, planned for October, will strengthen the ties with Italy thanks to a new alliance with the prestigious Polimoda Institute, which is an academic partner to promote student exchanges and mentor programs.
In addition, Next Generation was presented, a training program that runs from April and includes three pillars: the Fashion Talent Award, a competition for emerging designers with an expert jury; the business accelerator, focused on strategy and business leadership in fashion; And the Sustainable Design Lab, an experimental space focused on sustainable design.
“With the Next Generation program that is introduced on this edition, we want to cherish future MBBFW participants and become a natural presence on catwalks around the world, adds Mario Antico, co-founder of MBBFW.
This article appeared earlier on FashionUnited.es and was translated using an AI tool.
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