Loewe aan de top, opvallende verschuivingen en nieuwkomers

The Lyst Index, a quarterly overview of the most popular fashion brands and products worldwide, again provides insight into what is going on in industry. The ranking is compiled on the basis of search behavior of 160 million shoppers per year, both on and outside the Lyst platform, and through sales data and global social media activity. Q1 2025 was dominated by creative changes at top brands, striking newcomers and the departure of an influential designer who had a direct impact on the list.

Changes in the creative top at eight luxury brands

Eight major fashion houses announced a new creative director in the past quarter – four of them are at the top of the Lyst Index. It started in January with the appointment of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel. Shortly thereafter, Sabato de Sarno joined Gucci, after two years. He is succeeded by Demna, although it is not yet known who takes over his role in Balenciaga.

Designer Louise Trotter was appointed at Bottega Veneta. Glenn Martens (Maison Margiela), Michael Rider (Celine) and Simone Bellotti (Jil Sander) also got a new managerial role.

Loewe, this quarter the most popular brand in the Lyst Index, announced the departure of Jonathan Anderson. Anderson was at the helm of the Spanish fashion house for more than eleven years. He is succeeded by the designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, founders of Proenza Schouler. Anderson himself moves to Dior Men.

Departure Jonathan Anderson gives Loewe a boost

After the announcement of Anderson’s departure, the searches for Loewe rose by 38 percent. Thanks to that momentum, Loewe took over the first place in the Lyst Index from Miu Miu. According to Lyst, the interest in Anderson’s last collection is strikingly large. It is a well -known phenomenon in fashion: when a beloved creative director leaves, the demand for his or her work often increases.

An example of this is Phoebe Philo, who left Céline in 2018. After her departure, interest in “Old Céline” pieces rose. Her collections from that period are still being sought and sold well through platforms such as The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective.

Cos breaks through, skims drops

Chloé is in the top 10 of the list for the first time. Another striking entry in the top 10 is COS-the first High Street brand ever that this place knows how to get hold of.

Skims, the underwear brand of Kim Kardashian, just falls four places and is in 15th place, despite the announcement of a collaboration with Nike.

Sports brand On Maken Entrance

A striking newcomer is the Swiss sportswear brand On, which gets the list for the first time and arrives at number 18. Once started as a sneaker brand, On is now positioning itself stronger as an innovative lifestyl label. In the past year it collaborated with Loewe and Post Archive Faction – collaborations that were well received by both the market and consumers according to Lyst. Searches for on all this quarter by 50 percent.

On financially, on it is also good. According to figures from parent company on Holding AG, an exceptional result was achieved in the 2024 financial year. The expectations for 2025 are also positive.

Three rapidly rising brands

Lyst reflects the three fastest rising brands. The popularity of Duran Lantink’s fashion is rapidly rising this quarter: the fashion house of the same name gained 69 percent in popularity. The Dutch designer is known for his sculptural designs made from Deadstock and was recently appointed creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier.

Dries Van Nuts rises by 11 percent. The first autumn/winter show of Julien Klausner, the new creative director, was well received and heralds a new phase for the Belgian fashion house.

Levi’s rises 35 percent, partly due to a continued cooperation with Beyoncé. According to Lyst, the collaboration has revived the rich archive of the denim brand.