The tensions between the US and Ukraine have cast a heavy mood over the Ukrainian fashion community. Designers are showing resilience at Paris Fashion Week (PFW), presenting collections that celebrate their heritage during dark times.
Last week, US President Donald Trump met with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy in the Oval Office to discuss Ukraine’s war with Russia, and the US’s proposed deal to achieve peace. The meeting, which was conducted in front of news outlets and cameras, ended in an argument between the two leaders, followed by the Trump administration suspending military aid to Ukraine. Now, it looks like the leaders are ready to cooperate.
“I feel that the general consensus is we have to move forward and pull through. People are of course concerned about the latest news, but the stoicism is contagious,” says Vena Brykalin, editor-in-chief of Vogue Ukraine. “Everyone is trying to do their best work, designers that sell internationally try to present in the main cities — Bevza in New York, Masha Popova in London, Litkovska in Paris. It’s not just about being creative, but keeping people’s jobs and supporting their families.”
Many international brands shared statements of support immediately after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022, with some announcing fundraising, too. Since then, international fashion weeks (including London, Berlin and Paris) have supported Ukrainian brands in showing on-schedule as they grapple with challenges in keeping their businesses afloat. In September 2024, Ukrainian Fashion Week returned for the first time in two years, and it took place again in February 2025. In 2023, Ukrainian PR and entrepreneur Aleksandra Volkova set up Fashion Discovery London, a showcase which spotlights designers from various backgrounds, including many from Ukraine. In its February 2025 edition, the Ukrainian designers featured in the showcase were Sofia Kovalska (who is based in London and blends Ukrainian heritage with contemporary clothing), Shevchenko Sisters (based in Kharkiv and known for its elegant pieces with feminine details) and Demn (based in Kyiv and known for its subversive take on tailoring).
“Looking back at the last three years, I think the support from the industry has been unprecedented, especially in the first year. We’ve seen individuals and companies reaching out, offering Ukrainian talent opportunities in the form of pop-ups and retail projects, spots on fashion week calendars,” says Brykalin. “That said, I feel it’s not been the case these past two seasons. Ukrainian designers had an incredible range of opportunities, and those who were ready and willing to use them, have benefited from them. But fashion is business and now it’s gotten back to how good you are and how relevant your product is. Those who know how to stay in the business, stay in the business.”
