The Georgian-London designer David Koma made his debut at Milan Fashion Week as creative director of the fashion house Blumarine. His FW25 collection is characterized by “dark romance”. A recurring motive in the collection was the thistle, symbol of protection and vulnerability, processed in crystal applications and silver details.
Blumarin, founded in 1977, has recently experienced some important developments. In December 2022, Eih Eccellesze Italiane, the owner of Blumarin, considered an IPO. Founder Marco Marchi hereby referred to the strong growth of the group, thanks in part to “a successful creative repositioning” of Blumarin led by designer Nicola Brognano. Under his creative leadership, a strong Y2K esthetics was introduced, but then the creative changes quickly followed each other. Brognano leaves the house in October 2023 after three years as creative director. A month later, Walter Chiapponi was appointed as creative director at Blumarine, but leaves the company after just a few months. His successor, Koma, was appointed in July 2024. And brings experience of his own label, founded in 2009, and earlier role as creative director at Mugler (2013-2017).
View the images of Koma’s debut show for Blumarine below. With this collection, Koma is taking a new course, positioning blumarin as a romantic brand with tough, dark edge, which appeals to both young people and adult target groups.
