There is good and bad Modenieuws. The good news: the Dutch Duran Lantink has been appointed creative director of the French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier. The less good news: with Lantink’s appointment, the special chapter of guest designers at JPG comes to an end.
In 2020, after Jean Paul Gaultier said goodbye to the catwalk, the designer announced that he would open his fashion house to other designers. Every couture season gets a new designer who gets the chance to reinterpret the work of Gaultier and to design a contemporary haute couture collection for the house. In total there were eight. With Lantinks coming as a permanent creative director, this experimental chapter closes itself.
How eight designers Jean Paul Gaultier reinvent
Fortunately, the images remain of this innovative phase at JPG (FW21 –S25). From the female eye for tailoring of Sacai founder Chitose Abe to the gender fluid vision of Ludovic de Saint Sernin: Below is an overview of the guest designers who rewrite Gaultiers signatures in their own way.
Chitose Abe – FW21 Couture collection
Chitose Abe, founder of the Sacai brand, is the first guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier. During Paris Fashion Week in July 2020, she presents the fall/winter 2021 couture collection.
Abe’s interpretation is praised for its technical stratification and patchwork of stripes, female corsets and navy details. She effortlessly combines her own style with Gaultier’s DNA.
Glenn Martens – SS22 Couture collection
Glenn Martens, now creative director at Maison Margiela, presents his vision of JPG in January 2022.
Martens draws from the archive of the French fashion house. For example, he incorporates JPG classics such as the Cone Bra and Marinière in contemporary creations.
Olivier Rousteing – FW22 Couture collection
The well-known Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing gives Gaultiers codes a glamorous update. His autumn/winter 2022 collection is a tribute to the SS94 show Les Tatouagesprinted with translucent fabrics with tattoo-like patterns.
Rousteing’s show also contains a striking reference to the famous perfume bottle Le Malerecognizable by his transparent blue torso shape. The designer completes the styling with striking platform shoes that he carries every day.
Haider Ackermann – SS23 Couture collection
And then Haider Ackermann. In January 2023 he brings his modest sensuality and minimalism to Gaultier. His spring/summer 2023 collection is unanimously praised for the smooth drapery and sharp cut. The show ends with a standing ovation, according to the present press. JPG’s SS23 show, through the eyes of Ackermann, marks a moment of subdued elegance within the generally exuberant style codes of Gaultier.
Julien Dossena – FW23 Couture collection
Julien Dossena, main designer at Paco Rabanne, presents a collection in the autumn of 2023 in which he focuses on the iconic Gaultier corset. In a soft peach pink shade it contrasts with a silver -gray, with sequins occupied skirt. The cone-shaped cups and visible ribs give a modern twist to a classic that still forms a powerful fashion statement.
Simone Rocha – SS24 Couture collection
The British designer Simone Rocha makes his debut in January 2024 at JPG with a romantic collection with large silhouettes, transparent layers, lace and pearls.
Her spring/summer 2024 show shows pronounced volumes and a female aesthetics, which fits her own style, which she seamlessly integrates into the world of Gaultier.
Nicolas di Felice – FW24 Couture collection
Nicolas Di Felice, creative director of Courrèges, opted for a minimalist approach in June 2024.
The rich, visual language of the French house keeps the designer to a minimum. The collection concentrates on clean lines and only a few colors.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin – SS25 Couture collection
Ludovic de Saint Sernin closes the guest designer age with a high-profile spring/summer 2025 show. He brings a gender fluid collection with tight corsets, transparent fabrics and sensual bows.
“Le Naufrage” breathes desire and drama and challenges conventions about masculinity and femininity. Different looks underline this vision: a deep cleavage with corset, a harness with pheasant feathers, and a rokk costume with slip and muslin.
