Author: VOG

Sign up to receive the Vogue Business newsletter for the latest luxury news and insights, plus exclusive membership discounts.Michael Rider is the new creative director at Celine, the LVMH-owned fashion house announced on Wednesday. His appointment will take effect in early 2025. He will have the entire creative responsibility of all Celine collections, including womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories to couture, the statement reads.“I am delighted to welcome Michael back to Celine, a maison that he knows intimately. Michael’s vision, creative talent, together with his genuine nature and strong connection to Celine’s heritage make him a natural choice to continue…

While he wants this level of exclusivity in terms of wholesale, Abra’s positioning is in the contemporary bracket, more aligned with JW Anderson or Jacquemus, to make it accessible for his young consumer base. Shoes are maximum €500, while bags never go above €800. “Nothing will pass €1,000,” the designer says.He’s learning each season, and rethinking certain design elements to make his pieces more affordable and wearable. For example, when Abra started out, the brand was focused on hardware (notably its spikes). Now, the designer has tried to reduce the hardware slightly, to make the bags lighter and reduce production…

Valentino is a smaller brand. The Roman house reported sales of €1.35 billion in 2023, down 3 per cent compared to the previous year on a constant basis. Its profitability was 7.4 per cent in 2023. The budget at Valentino is arguably smaller too. Times have also changed. “The consumer of 2015 is not the consumer of 2024, but Michele is very much able to understand the zeitgeist,” says Mario Ortelli, managing director of Ortelli & Co.Surely, Michele has the ability to ignite trends. About the first look of the show, he said: “The first model was in love with…

More niche, more normalised: don’t expect the crossover of cultures to fade away anytime soon.

Meanwhile, at Acne Studios, the show space was filled with playful upholstered sculptures by artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase. The collection, dominated by jersey and knitwear, was commercial with some interesting twists.From boho to ballet: The key emerging trendsThe first few days of Paris have continued to deliver on the romanticism we have been seeing so far on the season’s runways. “Delicate lace at Chloé, silk and organza at Dries Van Noten, and chiffon maxi dresses at Saint Laurent have floated down the runway, paying homage to brand heritage in their own distinct way,” says Kate Benson, buying director at Net-a-Porter.In…

Sign up to receive the Vogue Business newsletter for the latest luxury news and insights, plus exclusive membership discounts.The mounting claims against the late Mohamed Al Fayed have shocked the industry, and the world. Al Fayed allegedly raped and sexually assaulted several women when he was the owner of London’s iconic luxury department store Harrods. On 20 September, a team of lawyers announced plans to bring a global civil lawsuit against Harrods for failing to protect female employees from abuse. To date, the team represents 60 women; it is working through another 200 enquiries.Al Fayed, who died last year, was a…

When I arrived at the Mugler studio on a rainy Paris afternoon, three days out from the show, casting was underway downstairs while Cadwallader took a break to talk to Vogue Business. The atmosphere was calm until five minutes in, when the fire alarm went off, and the whole building was evacuated, including Casey, myself and the brand’s managing director, Adrian Corsin. Then, Corsin and I got stuck in a service lift on the way back into the building. “Never a dull moment at Mugler,” he joked.Back in the studio, show prep was ticking along, fire alarms notwithstanding. The looks…

The pressure is arguably higher for McGirr: he succeeded Sarah Burton, who left Alexander McQueen last September after 26 years at the brand, 13 as creative director — during which she won plaudits for balancing the brand’s couture ethos with a strong ready-to-wear offer. He has “big shoes to fill”, as Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower put it. His debut collection for Alexander McQueen, with its exaggerated neck knits, shearling jacket and jet-beaded pantsuits, was met with mixed reviews, straying far from Burton’s work, shooting for a younger audience with a less tailored silhouette.There’s a lot riding on this next show.…

“It’s been a truly collaborative project where I feel both partners learnt a lot from each other,” Bahnsen tells Vogue Business on Zoom, the day she arrives in Paris ahead of the show, which takes place on 25 September. “In the high-performance scene and with their technicality, [The North Face] are truly nerds within their field, which we are as well.”The collaboration — which has been in the works for a year and a half — echoes this season’s trend of pairing cocktail dresses with technical outerwear on the runway, as seen in London and Milan. It also channels fashion’s move…

Ludovic de Saint Sernin will be the eighth guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. He is also the youngest. At the time he was born, in 1990, fashion’s original enfant terrible, then around 38-years-old, had presented his luscious Adam and Eve, Rastas Aujourd’hui (Rastas today) collection, which featured giddy male and female models walking as couples; the likes of Helena Christensen and Rossy de Palma in colourful suits, floral corsetry and dance-club ensembles. True to form, there was humour, performance and innuendo on a level we rarely see today.Yet de Saint Sernin, who launched his label in 2017 and took…