Author: VOG

Lanvin’s last show on the Paris calendar was in March 2023 under previous artistic director Bruno Sialelli, who exited in April 2023.It marks the next step in Lanvin’s reboot, spearheaded by Shukla over the past three years, which has involved a rethink of its product and marketing. Last month, the house unveiled the third “chapter” of its ‘Character Studies’ campaign, a series of portraits lensed by American photographer Steven Meisel that came out in three instalments, the latest one being in October. Shukla calls it “an important visual metronome of what is to come, in the sense that Lanvin should…

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From now on, much of Aupen’s production will be in Métiers d’Art factories. Already, Aupen’s hardware is produced at Paris-based Jade Groupe, and handbag leather at Tanneries Roux, which specialises in calfskin and is located about two hours outside of the city. “They work with luxury houses like Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Berluti,” Tan says. “So being able to develop leather articles with them has been a really special opportunity.” Going forward, the brand plans to work with LVMH’s global production partners as well. (A representative from LVMH Métiers d’Art declined to comment on the partnership.)It’s not just the supply…

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Scandi womenswear label Saks Potts will close down in spring 2025 after a decade in operation.The independent brand landscape has been particularly challenging in recent years, with rising costs and subdued consumer spending forcing many to file for administration or bankruptcy. But for Saks Potts, it wasn’t a financial decision. In fact, the brand says it has achieved consistent annual sales growth of 25 per cent since its founding in 2014 and that 2024 is set to be its strongest financial year yet.Why let a good thing go? “Barbara [Potts] and I started Saks Potts when we were very young…

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Wild West Social House co-founders Max Feldmann and Kyle Julian Skye want to change the way people build wardrobes. That is to say, they don’t want people to build them at all — at least not in their own closets.In August 2023, they launched Wild West, a luxury fashion proposition that is part members’ club, part clothing rental. Based originally in a temporary bricks-and-mortar location in Los Angeles, in September 2024 Wild West took over the old Hollywood Foreign Press Association building for its first permanent flagship. The clubhouse carries about 4,500 luxury garments, shoes and accessories (the goal is to…

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It’s a challenging time to be an independent fashion brand, especially in the UK where Brexit has taken a heavy toll. A number of buzzy London-based brands that were on a promising trajectory a decade ago have since been shuttered, while the collapse of Matches continues to reverberate.Among the success stories is British independent fashion brand Erdem, which celebrates its 20th year in 2025 and is fresh from opening its first store outside of the UK, in Seoul. Working side by side with the brand’s founder Erdem Moralıoğlu to drive its growth strategy, is Philippa Nixon, who joined as its…

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Change happens at the top, and those leading fashion now will be the ones to shape its future. Where do these leaders stand when it comes to the evolution of technology, retail, customer behaviour, experience and sustainability?At this year’s Vogue Business Executive Summit, we invited CEOs from different pockets of the fashion industry to discuss their perspectives on the state of the industry, what’s at the top of their priority lists and how they plan to overcome hurdles — be it the luxury slowdown or a lag in brand relevance — in the years ahead.Vogue Business executive Americas editor Hilary…

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OTB may be smaller than some of the other luxury groups, but its brands have a growing impact on the fashion landscape — from Maison Margiela, which is arguably at the height of its powers following John Galliano’s Artisanal show, to Marni, which met critical acclaim following its Spring/Summer 2024 show in September. OTB scion Stefano Rosso is chairman of Maison Margiela, CEO of Marni and CEO of BVX (Brave Virtual Xperience), OTB’s business unit dedicated to products for virtual worlds.While cognisant of the luxury slowdown, Rosso is finding opportunities for OTB to boost market share, via global expansion and…

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Rental is already part of the brand’s mix: it’s worked with clothing rental company Rent the Runway since 2021, and doesn’t intend to pull inventory to focus on its own channel. But bringing more options to rent closer to the fold, and still without needing to take on the logistical challenges, is a new way to further invest in the direct-to-consumer model and drive sales. “In terms of the logistics, we’ve got that down,” says Dvorett. “You can extend the earning potential and profitability of the garment to drive profitable growth.”P180, under the new arrangement, is also taking more pressure…

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Dan Salkey, strategy partner at Small World, a consultancy that builds entertainment-first brands and that I also work for, feels there’s a distinct reason sexy grotesque art, marketing and dressing is on the rise. “In a fragmented media environment where people are harder to reach than ever before, the name of the game is entertain or die. There are plenty of ways brands inside and outside of fashion have been doing this: Duolingo builds brand lore through its green owl mascot, Loewe creates advertising that feels like it came out of a sketch show, while MSCHF has combined commerce and…

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