Author: VOG

It promised to be a season of celebrazione in Milan, and the city delivered. Anniversary shows from Fendi and Dsquared2 set a joyful tone, which was reflected by the (mostly) sunny weather. Diesel, Marni and Giorgio Armani were among those to offer standout collections, while several emerging designers had the chance to shine.“The overall mood was very positive in Milan this season,” says Kay Barron, fashion director at Net-a-Porter. “The sunshine had an uplifting effect and everyone was in high spirits. There felt a sense of excitement in the city, and the presentations brought a vibrant atmosphere.”

So that show happened and it was good, really good. Then, we had this party. Perry Farrell DJ’d and Ben Harper was there and this really mixed New York crowd: I mean Grace Jones, Donald Trump, Veronica Webb. It was a situation. It was great.And back in Italy suddenly there were a lot of meetings happening, and people coming into the factory to see things, and a lot going on. At the same time, I’d been working with Manuela Morin inside Bottega Veneta — she was the shoe designer there and had become like my work sister — and we’d…

A very noticeable newcomer to the show calendar is Alaïa. The house’s founder Azzedine Alaïa famously opted out of Paris Fashion Week, choosing to show on his own time instead. Under its current creative director Pieter Mulier, the maison has been often showing its ready-to-wear collections during Paris couture, with a one-off in New York during September 2024. This marks the first time the house enters the official Paris ready-to-wear schedule.Alaïa SS25 at the Guggenheim Museum. Photo: Courtesy of AlaïaSaint Laurent SS25. Photo: Alessandro LucioniCoperni, which showed off-calendar in Disneyland Paris last season at the tail end of PFW, returns…

In the early days, it was easier to dress celebrities as an unknown designer, di Morabito says. He’s had time to build up a reputation with stylists over the last nine years, resulting in many A-lister moments. Photo: Getty ImagesAfter securing investment from Style Capital, his second round after the unnamed investor in 2016, di Morabito finally felt ready to stage a runway show. The collection, entitled ‘Alone with the Stars’, is inspired by an accident the designer had in Namibia last year, causing “a moment of solitude that brought out suppressed emotions, transforming them into creativity,” he says. The…

For some, yes. Many of the H&M and Abercrombie pieces are already sold out. In Bovaird’s view, these collaborations offer viewers a realistic way into a show they enjoy. “The collection aims to blend all that opulence and wish fulfilment into dreamy pieces so that we can all feel like a million bucks,” she says. “You can wear the total looks with our accessories, or you can pair the bikini top with a pair of jeans. We want to give everybody a The White Lotus moment,” she says.But how many White Lotus moments do viewers need? As far as brand-screen…

Jil Sander has split with Luke and Lucie Meier after seven years. The Milan-based house announced the end of the couple’s tenure as co-creative directors in a statement on 26 February, just after their final show for Autumn/Winter 2025.In the statement, OTB Group chairman Renzo Rosso thanked the Meiers for their “vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”. Jil Sander was acquired by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group (home also to Diesel, Maison Martin Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf) in April 2021.As well as shaping a freshly precise iteration of abstracted minimalism while at Jil Sander, the Meiers’s…

This article first appeared on Vogue.“Many poets have said it much better than I can. And nearly all of us have felt it, or long to feel it. What I’m talking about is that feeling when your world lurches beautifully: when an existence that had seemed fixed and predictable suddenly moves, becomes almost a little blurred, and it makes your heart beat faster and your stomach flip.”As he gesticulates from a banquette in Milan’s Sant Ambroeus, Lorenzo Serafini is discussing the galvanising emotional earthquake of romance. He adds: “What seems strange to me is that today, when romance comes up…

Eveningwear designer Giuseppe Di Morabito will make his debut on Friday. The designer, who was also a finalist of Who Is On Next, has already found commercial success with over 200 global stores. “He has a very sexy, Italian, assertive look,” says Cardini, who remembers Di Morabito’s Who Is On Next collection. “I’m very curious to see how he develops his vision.”Another name to watch is Institution by Galib Gassanoff, Feroldi and Cardini agree. The designer co-founded luxury eveningwear label Act No1, before exiting the label in 2023 to strike out on his own. Gassanoff, who hails from Georgia, will…

The words and terms to know to stay ahead in the fashion and beauty industries.

Beyond exploring new formats, deciding not to show every season also allows young designers to focus on building different areas of their business. Take Chopova Lowena, which has been showing once a year for the past three years, and launched its new fragrance line last month, or Ahluwalia, who has this season partnered with Pandora to create six designs that can be engraved on the brand’s jewellery in-store.For Karoline Vitto, working out a production strategy has been a key focus for autumn/winter 2025. “I took on a big task last year, which was moving our production to Brazil, where I…