This article first appeared on Vogue.
We’re just two weeks into 2025, but we’re already starting to think about the clothes we’ll be wearing later this year with the Autumn/Winter 2025 shows kicking off at Pitti Uomo in Florence on 14 January. On Tuesday, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) is releasing the New York Fashion Week calendar, which will take place from 6 February to 11 February, and though it’s a tighter schedule than usual, there are a few surprises.
After a year-long absence from the runway — and five years away from NYFW — Christopher John Rogers is back, closing out the first day with an 8pm show. For the last few seasons, New York has played host to a European designer decamping to the city to soak up the cool vibes, but this year, we’re welcoming the Italian designer Veronica Leoni ‘home’ with her debut collection as creative director of Calvin Klein Collection on 7 February at noon. Calvin Klein hasn’t put on a runway show since Raf Simons’s exit in late 2018 when the brand was known as Calvin Klein 205W39NYC. Other debuts on the schedule include Leblanc Studios, the Dominican label founded in 2014 by Angelo Beato and Yamil Arbaje, and Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, which has, until now, held intimate, buzzy off-schedule presentations. Marc Jacobs is continuing his tradition of holding a show off-schedule, but this time he’s made the off-schedule align with the real schedule, more or less. His spring 2025 collection will be shown on 3 February at 7.30pm.
Notable absences so far are Proenza Schouler, who last season showed off-calendar a few days before the official start of the week, Area, Wiederhoeft and Melitta Baumeister. Willy Chavarria, a rising star of NYFW, is presenting at Paris Men’s on 24 January, while Ralph Lauren, who is as established as it gets, has yet to announce plans for the AW25 season.
After skipping last season, Fforme is returning to the schedule on Friday at 2pm, with a new creative director Frances Howie, who cut her teeth at Alber Elbaz’s Lanvin and Stella McCartney. After taking paternity leave last season, Joseph Altuzarra is back and will be holding his show on Saturday at 11am. In something of a surprise, Norma Kamali has a slot on the official schedule after more than a decade away; her show is scheduled for 11 February. After putting on his second couture show in Paris in June, Thom Browne wasn’t on the NYFW calendar in September; this season, he’ll be closing out the week with a 5pm show.
Rounding out the goings-on will be a myriad of collections to see by appointment, parties and, of course, lots of gossip. Stay tuned for updates in the weeks ahead.
