This article first appeared on Vogue Runway.
The weather is getting warmer, and spring is slowly transitioning into summer. But not so fast — before us fashion folks grab our beach totes and turn on those out-of-office autoreplies, an early summer of fashion shows is on the horizon.
Soon after Louis Vuitton’s resort 2026 show in the south of France this Thursday and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Rome extravaganza for Christian Dior next week, the men’s shows will kick off at Pitti Uomo on 17 June and close in Paris on 29 June. Sandwiched in between, as usual, is Milan Fashion Week, which just released its men’s collections calendar for the spring 2026 season. Here’s what you need to know about it.
Gucci and Fendi, typically Milan Fashion Week staples, are missing in action again. Demna’s debut show for the former is expected to happen during the ready-to-wear collections in September, with Gucci showing co-ed, studio-designed collections in the meantime. Sabato De Sarno reinstituted split shows at Gucci after Alessandro Michele’s all-gender era — whether Demna follows suit or keeps it co-ed, as he did at Balenciaga, remains to be seen, but we can expect his spring 2026 presentation, at least, to encompass both genders given the fact that Gucci isn’t showing during men’s. Fendi, for its part, is being guided by Silvia Venturini Fendi’s steady hand, and following the warm reception her centennial celebration in February received, she’ll be staging a co-ed show in September once more.
Also missing from the calendar are rising star Luca Magliano, JW Anderson as Jonathan Anderson prepares to present his debut collection for Dior Men in Paris on 27 June, and Zegna, which usually occupies the closing slot in Milan. Alessandro Sartori will take his spring 2026 Zegna collection to Dubai this season instead. Scheduled for 11 June, it will be the brand’s first-ever runway outside of Italy and the unofficial kickoff to the spring 2026 men’s collections. Giorgio Armani will tie the ribbon in Milan instead on 23 June.
In the absence of Federico Cina, who often opens the schedule, the inaugural honors go to Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu on 20 June. Last season, Kuwata staged his first full runway presentation as a guest at Pitti Uomo. Saul Nash is returning for his sophomore season in Milan following his AW25 show; he will present his collection on 22 June. Etro is back on the presentation schedule with its men’s collection showcase on 22 June. (Designer Marco De Vincenzo began staging co-ed shows for autumn and a stand-alone presentation for men’s spring as of last year.) Bally is currently operating sans creative director after Simone Bellotti’s exit (he’s headed to Jil Sander), so the brand is preparing a co-ed presentation on… 22 June.
The game of musical chairs is finally coming to a halt, but there’s no denying the men’s calendar has taken some hits, with some labels in flux opting to skip the season. Given that most of the recently announced designers are debuting in September, the state of men’s fashion — and fashion week — won’t really come into focus until 2026, but we’ll be watching.
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