If the 2010s were the era of the hypebeast sneaker, the 2020s brought the fashion sneaker to the fore. In 2023, you’d be hard-pressed to find a Samba in your size at an Adidas store. The brand’s collaboration with Grace Wales Bonner sold out by the drop, with resale values above $700. Onitsuka Tigers and Puma Speedcats were paired with Khaite jeans and The Row coats. Brands from Bode to Jacquemus released sold-out Nike tie-ups. Then came the rise of brown suede sneakers, from Dries Van Noten’s fashion-favourites to Miu Miu’s New Balance collab.
This fashion month signalled a shift — not on the runway, but on the feet of show-goers. Editors noted very few sneaker looks on show attendees, as themselves and buyers — who notoriously dress in comfortable enough footwear to run from show to show — swapped sneakers for alternative footwear, whether ballet flats, loafers or boots. Is the sneaker’s status as a fashion item waning?
