Vogue: What categories in fashion are you excited about right now?
I’m really into ready-to-wear at the moment because it’s just the core of what the house stands for.
Vogue: My colleague José Criales-Unzueta recently wrote how “menswear learnt to embrace the internet’s thirst”, noting that some houses now focus their efforts on the red carpet and skip men’s runways in favour of co-ed shows. What are your thoughts?
I think you can’t show the breadth of work on a red carpet. The red carpet, the actors are going where they want to, they don’t want to stand out too much, they just want to look good. Fashion shows are very different. I’m not mad on co-ed shows because I think the men’s way can sometimes get lost because womenswear is always going to be more out there.
Vogue: So men’s shows are still very relevant?
Definitely, and especially in Asia: men’s and women’s businesses there are very separate. Dior is treated like that, Vuitton’s treated like that, Hermès is treated like that — and they’re the big ones. You’re appealing to two very different customers.
Vogue: After all your achievements, what are your future hopes and goals?
I don’t know yet. I’ll see. I’m not a planner. I just go with the flow.
Vogue: You launched your namesake label in 2003 and had it until you were appointed creative director at Dunhill in 2008. Would you ever consider bringing it back?
If I did it, I’d do it in a very different way. It’d be a complete lifestyle. It wouldn’t be just clothing. I haven’t thought about it, but the things that people are really looking to spend money on is their home and travel.
Vogue: Do you still have your 18th century home in Sussex?
Yes I do, but it’s being renovated at the moment. It’ll be ready in April and then we’ll be spending time putting that back together and putting all the art and the furniture back in, which is very exciting. It’s been a long two-year restoration.
Vogue: So you feel strongly about the home category?
Home is where you are. Regardless of whether you rent or own, buying things for your house is always an investment in yourself.
