“Jonathan Anderson has brilliantly reinvented and embodied Loewe. He has become almost inseparable from it, so big shoes to fill,” notes Lahssan. “Historically, Paris has not been kind to American designers who take over a historic house. They absolutely must find their creative angle, but also their Parisian creative community to help them elevate and calibrate their proposition to Parisian standards.”
McCollough and Hernandez rose to prominence in 2002, when, fresh from Parsons School of Design, they introduced Proenza Schouler — a New York label that would become a mainstay for NYFW for two decades. They stepped down from Proenza Schouler earlier this year before being appointed at Loewe. Their deep understanding of silhouettes, accessories and the red carpet game makes them a strong fit for the house.
Mugler: Miguel Castro Freitas
The group of recently appointed designers mixes big names and behind-the-scenes talents. Castro Freitas falls in the latter category. Yet the Portuguese CSM graduate who is now based in Paris has 20 years of experience working for established luxury houses under his belt.
Castro Freitas’s new job will thrust him into the spotlight as he succeeds Casey Cadwallader, whose seven-year tenure turned Mugler into the go-to brand for big-name performers and celebrities. Castro Freitas was most recently creative director for the Max Mara-owned brand Sportmax from the SS21 to SS24 seasons. “As one of the 20th century’s great couturiers, Mr Mugler reimagined the power and limits of fashion. Alongside the teams, I am thrilled to bring my own vision, story and emotion to this monumental heritage,” said Castro Freitas at the time of his appointment. Fashion tastemakers are curious to see what he brings to the brand.
Versace: Dario Vitale
Though Dario Vitale may also be relatively unknown to the public, he has a winning streak under his belt. He was most recently the ready-to-wear and brand image design director at Miu Miu, whose growth rates have been defying the odds. After working with Miuccia Prada for many years, he will work alongside Donatella Versace as chief creative officer of Versace (she became chief brand ambassador).
Can Vitale create a Miu Miu phenomenon at Versace? What Miu Miu and Versace have in common is a reflection of the chic bourgeois Italian woman. He has the ability to reinterpret that archetype through the Versace archives and play with the house’s codes, including its iconic Medusa. Now Versace is part of the Prada Group. “Versace is a brand with great global awareness, heritage and legitimacy in many product categories. If managed well and with the right creative boost, Versace could be a gold mine,” Ortelli recently told Vogue Business. Vitale will present his debut show in Milan in September. Will Donatella Versace and Miuccia Prada attend Vitale’s debut?
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