“I think it’s going to be a hit,” Sidney Toledano, senior advisor to LVMH chair and CEO Bernard Arnault, tells Vogue Business. “Michael is comfortable in Paris; he understands the Parisienne, but an international Parisienne.”
On the playful use of the logo, Rider said: “ A sense of levity and humour is sorely missed in fashion. I would never want to be perceived as ironic or cynical, but having a sense of humour in the space of luxury is a beautiful thing. Logos are something from the ’60s and ’70s that Madame Vipiana used frequently in a way that was always chic. I like what logos do because they move from really tasteful to very different from that.”
“Michael Rider presented a collection that is in line with the house’s DNA, keeping Hedi Slimane’s purity while evolving it, adding colours — blue and red — and developing accessories — jewellery, scarves, bag charms,” says Arthur Lemoine, head of buying at Galeries Lafayette.
Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, agrees: “There’s a play on proportions which results in many varied silhouettes, but all united in an effortless attitude that works well, like in the opening look and efficiently conveys the ‘cool bourgeoise’ identity of Celine. There’s something with branding, too, an intentional pastiche that’s playful. I hadn’t seen such creativity and risk-taking coming from a megabrand in a long time: some looks feel ‘off’ but in a good way.”
Photos: Fior – Dragone / Gorunway.com
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