This couture season nicely surpassed our expectations. Staples like Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino, Fendi, Givenchy, Alexis Mabille and Alexandre Vauthier may have been absent with many of the houses in transition, but it turns out there’s always a bright side. “The absence of some big brands created room for smaller brands to shine,” says Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the curator behind blockbuster exhibitions on legacy houses like Jean Paul Gaultier and Mugler.
And then, of course, there were the debuts. “The debuts have been good. [Jonathan Anderson’s debut at] Dior was good, Celine was good, Margiela was great,” says David Martin, editor-in-chief of Odda magazine. “I feel positive about what’s coming next”.